The Dark Streets of HaridwarWe are going to India to scatter his ashes, will you come? I said, No, too much going on. And in retrospect, the whorl of obligations at the hearth, the petty machinations at work, all the false importance given to whatever the computer monitor provoked in me— its green light running in translucent waves up and down the screen as I read my father’s mail, robbed me of the feel of grandfather’s ash slipping through my fingers into the Ganges. I did not walk with my father through Haridwar’s teeming bazaar—its gilded devas stacked and ready for sale, its heaps of flowers, the stench of its buffaloes and milky sweets—looking for the priest who kept the family records: every birth and death for seven generations. I did not see the priest’s brown fingers running down a dusty, unscrolled page until he came to our name. I did not hear the droning chants for my grandfather or our ancestors at the water’s edge, and I did not learn where to take my own father’s ashes or where to imprint the record of his death, I think as I wander the dark streets of Haridwar, a mongrel child pleading in broken Hindi for anyone to help— to help me find my family’s name. |
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